BROOCH, circa 1910

AN EMERALD AND DIAMOND HANDKERCHIEF BROOCH, circa 1910

An emerald and diamond handkerchief brooch, circa 1910 The lozenge-shaped surmount set with a step-cut emerald, within borders of old brilliant and single-cut diamonds and calibré-cut emeralds, suspending an openwork floral and foliate pendant designed to resemble folded lace, millegrain-set throughout with similarly cut diamonds and emeralds, terminating in a fringe of pear-shaped emerald and single-cut diamond drops, mounted in platinum and yellow gold.

An emerald and diamond handkerchief brooch, circa 1910

The lozenge-shaped surmount set with a step-cut emerald, weighing 8.53 carats, within borders of old brilliant and single-cut diamonds and calibré-cut emeralds, suspending an openwork floral and foliate pendant designed to resemble folded lace, millegrain-set throughout with similarly cut diamonds and emeralds, terminating in a fringe of pear-shaped emerald and single-cut diamond drops, mounted in platinum and yellow gold, largest old brilliant-cut diamond approximately 1.30 carats, length at longest point 9.8cm, cased by London & Ryder, 17 New Bond St, London, W

FOOTNOTES

Accompanied by a report from SSEF stating that the emerald weighing 8.534 carats is of Colombian origin, with indications of clarity modification; moderate amount of oil in fissures. Report number 75859, dated 31^st july 2014.

Peter Hinks notes that in 1910 new shapes were employed in late Edwardian jewellery design. One of these was marketed as the handkerchief, an upturned kite or bottom-heavy lozenge with the sharpest angle at the top, so-called because their angular designs were "remotely intended" to look like folded pocket handkerchiefs. See Hinks, Peter, "Twentieth Century British Jewellery 1900-1980", Faber and Faber, London, 1983, pp40-1.

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